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Immersion heater repair across Chatham

Covering Rochester High Street, Walderslade, Railway Street, Rochester and all ME areas

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HomeGeneral PlumbingImmersion Heater Repair

Immersion heaters are backup hot water sources in older Chatham properties with hot water cylinders. When they fail, you've got no hot water unless the boiler works. Common faults: the element's burned out, the thermostat's failed, or the wiring's loose.

We'll test the element, check the thermostat, and replace whatever's failed. Most immersion heater repairs are done in an hour or two. We carry standard elements and thermostats on the van.

There's no call-out fee when you book with us. We'll quote you before we start, and our 12-month guarantee is included with our membership plan.

Signs Your Immersion Heater's Failed

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No hot water from the immersion

You turn on the immersion heater switch and wait, but the water stays cold. The element's burned out, the thermostat's failed, or there's no power getting to the heater. We'll test each component and replace what's faulty.

⚠️

Immersion heater tripping the fuse or RCD

You turn on the immersion and it trips the fuse or RCD immediately. The element's shorted to earth (usually because it's corroded or scaled up). We'll replace the element. Don't keep resetting the trip, you'll cause a fire.

⚠️

Water takes forever to heat

The immersion's on but the water takes hours to heat up. The element's partially burned out, the thermostat's set too low, or the cylinder's heavily scaled. We'll test the element and thermostat and descale the cylinder if needed.

⚠️

Water's too hot or boiling

The water's scalding hot or the cylinder's making boiling noises. The thermostat's failed or is set too high. The water's overheating and the cylinder might burst or the pressure relief valve might dump water. Turn it off and call us.

⚠️

Leak from the immersion heater boss

Water's dripping from the immersion heater fitting on the side of the cylinder. The element seal's perished or the boss is corroded. We'll drain the cylinder, remove the element, replace the seal or the boss, and refit it.

What to Check Before We Arrive

1

Check the immersion heater switch

The switch is usually in an airing cupboard or on the wall near the cylinder. Make sure it's turned on. Some properties have two switches (one for a top element and one for a bottom element). Check both.

2

Check the fuse or RCD

If the immersion's not working, check if the fuse has blown or the RCD has tripped. If it keeps tripping when you turn the immersion on, the element's shorted and needs replacing. Don't keep resetting it.

3

Test the water temperature

Run the hot tap for a minute and see if the water heats up at all. If it's stone cold, the element's dead. If it's lukewarm, the element might be partially working or the thermostat's set too low.

4

Turn it off if it's leaking

If water's dripping from the immersion heater fitting, turn off the switch and the water supply to the cylinder (there's usually a valve on the cold feed pipe). Don't use the immersion until we've fixed the leak.

How We Repair Immersion Heaters

1

Test the element

We'll isolate the power, remove the cover, and test the element with a multimeter. If it's open circuit (no continuity), it's burned out. If it's shorted to earth, it's corroded. Either way, it needs replacing.

2

Test the thermostat

We'll test the thermostat to see if it's working and set correctly. If it's failed (stuck open or stuck closed), we'll replace it. If it's just set wrong, we'll adjust it to 60°C (standard setting).

3

Drain the cylinder and replace the element

If the element's failed, we'll turn off the water, drain the cylinder (or just drain it below the level of the element), unscrew the old element, and fit a new one. We'll replace the seal to stop leaks.

4

Refill, test, and check for leaks

We'll refill the cylinder, turn the power back on, and test the immersion. We'll check it heats properly, the thermostat cuts out at the right temperature, and there are no leaks from the element fitting.

Upfront prices, no nasty surprises

We'll always tell you the cost before we start. These are typical price ranges, your exact quote depends on the job.

ServiceTypical Cost
Immersion heater element replacement£120 – £200
Immersion heater thermostat replacement£100 – £160
Immersion heater seal/boss repair£140 – £250

All prices are estimated. Final costs depend on the specific job. We provide detailed quotes before starting work.

Got questions? Here's the quick answers.

How much does immersion heater repair cost in Chatham?
Element replacement costs £120 to £200. Thermostat replacement costs £100 to £160. Seal or boss repair costs £140 to £250. We'll quote you once we've tested the heater and diagnosed the fault.
How long does immersion heater repair take?
About an hour or two. We'll drain the cylinder (or part of it), replace the element or thermostat, refill, and test. If the cylinder's heavily scaled, draining takes longer.
Why does the immersion trip the fuse?
The element's shorted to earth, usually because it's corroded or scaled up. It's dangerous. Don't keep resetting the trip. We'll replace the element.
Can I use the boiler while the immersion's broken?
Yes. If you've got a system boiler that heats the cylinder, you can still use that for hot water. The immersion's just a backup. If the boiler's broken as well, you've got no hot water until we fix one or the other.
How long should an immersion heater element last?
5 to 10 years depending on how much you use it and how hard the water is. Chatham water's moderately hard, so elements scale up over time and burn out eventually.
Should I leave the immersion on all the time?
No. It's expensive to run (electric heating costs more than gas). Use it as a backup when the boiler fails or for a boost if you run out of hot water. Most people leave it off and only use it when needed.
Why is the water too hot?
The thermostat's failed or is set too high. The water's overheating. Turn off the immersion switch immediately. We'll replace or adjust the thermostat to 60°C (the standard safe setting).
Will you have the element on the van?
We carry standard 11-inch and 14-inch elements for common cylinders. If you've got an unusual size or a dual-element setup, we might need to order one. We'll measure it when we're there.
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